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Orry-Kelly

Casablanca

We Believe History is

Storytelling

1920s-1930s

The first moving pictures catapulted costume into the public eye when scripts quickly exceeded early actors’ abilities to dress themselves. As audiences grew, theatres sprang up, and movies soared in complexity, costume design for film became a new occupation. In black and white celluloid, costume designer Travis Banton forged signature looks for icons such as Marlene Dietrich and Louise Brooks. In 1927, the introduction of sound ushered in the glamour of Hollywood’s golden age. The joy of musicals like Fred Astaire and Ginger Rodgers’ Top Hat, by Bernard Newman, captivated Depression Era audiences, while in 1939 saw Gilbert Adrian’s costumes for The Wizard of Oz realized in dazzling technicolor. Hollywood’s impact was felt world-wide.

Adrian is most well-known for his designs in The Wizard of Oz including the ruby slippers

1939

Adrian  Costume Designer

The Wizard of Oz
1935 1940 wizard
1939

Adrian  Costume Designer

The Wizard of Oz
1935 1940 tophat
1935

Bernard Newman Costume Designer

Top Hat
tophat 3
1935

Bernard Newman Costume Designer

Top Hat
tophat
1935

Bernard Newman Costume Designer

Top Hat
tophat Old moments
1935

Bernard Newman Costume Designer

Top Hat
1935 1940 gone
1940

Walter PlunkettCostume Designer

Gone with the Wind
gonewiththewind Poster
1940

Walter PlunkettCostume Designer

Gone with the Wind
Gone With The Wind
1940

Walter PlunkettCostume Designer

Gone with the Wind

“I don’t think it was my best work or even the biggest thing I ever did… But that picture, of course, will go on forever, and that green dress, because it makes a story point, is probably the most famous costume in the history of motion pictures.” –Walter Plunkett

Play
1930 Travis Banton Carole Lombard
1930-1936

Travis BantonCostume Designer

Marlene Dietrich
1932 Marlene Dietrich
1930-1936

Travis BantonCostume Designer

Marlene Dietrich
1930 Marlene Morocco Travis Banton
1930-1936

Travis BantonCostume Designer

Marlene Dietrich
1930 Marlene Morroco
1930-1936

Travis BantonCostume Designer

Marlene Dietrich
1936 Marlene Desire Travis Banton
1930-1936

Travis BantonCostume Designer

Marlene Dietrich
1934 Howard Greer Silvia Sidney 30 Day Princess
1934

Howard GreerCostume Designer

Thirty Day Princess
1939 Walter Plunkett
1939

Walter PlunkettCostume Designer

Gone with the Wind
1935 1940 gonewiththewind scroll
1939

Walter PlunkettCostume Designer

Gone with the Wind
1935 1940 sawyer scroll
1939

Walter PlunkettCostume Designer

Tom Sawyer
1937 Robert Kalloch The Awful Truth JJ
1937

Robert KallochCostume Designer

The Awful Truth
1939 Adrian JJ
1939

AdrianCostume Designer

The Women
Bernard Newman
1939

Bernard NewmanCostume Designer

Follow the Fleet
1935 1940 followtheFleet scroll
1939

Bernard NewmanCostume Designer

Follow the Fleet
1935 1940 sevensinners scroll
1940

Irene LentzCostume Designer

Seven Sinners
1935 1940 sevensinners scroll
1940

Irene LentzCostume Designer

Seven Sinners

1940s-1950s

World War II inspired escapism in audiences. The decade opened with Walter Plunkett’s civil war drama Gone with the Wind, and Adrian’s costume collaboration with Joan Crawford minted the strong-shouldered silhouette of the decade. Edward Manson Stevenson designed the legendary movie Citizen Kane and It’s A Wonderful Life. Casablanca, by Orry-Kelly, epitomized Film Noir. In contrast, Fifties postwar affluence produced images like Marilyn Monroe standing over a subway grate dressed in William Travilla’s billowing white halter. Moss Mabry shunned glamour for gritty realism in Rebel Without A Cause, appealing to the newest demographic, the teenager. The Hollywood studio system dissolved and in 1953 The Costume Designers Guild Local 892 was organized.

The Golden Age of Hollywood
Grandeur
casa blanca Scene
1939

Orry Kelly   Costume Designer

 Casablanca
casa blanca Poster
1939

Orry Kelly   Costume Designer

 Casablanca
casa blanca
1939

Orry Kelly   Costume Designer

 Casablanca
Marlyn
1939

Orry Kelly   Costume Designer

 Casablanca
1953

Edith HeadCostume Designer

Roman Holiday

CDG Founded
in 1953

by a group of 30 passionate motion picture Costume Designers who found strength in joining forces, responding to the changing needs of the motion picture industry.

“I would rather go to Coney Island and open up a Hot Dog stand than dress that woman again!”
– Orry-Kelly on Marilyn Monroe

Play
1953

Travilla  Costume Designer

Gentleman Prefer Blondes
Citizen Kane
1941, 1947

Edward Manson StevensonCostume Designer

Citizen Kane, It's A Wonderful Life
Its A Wonderful Life
1941, 1947

Edward Manson StevensonCostume Designer

Citizen Kane, It's A Wonderful Life
My Favorite Brunett
1947

Edith HeadCostume Designer

My Favorite Brunet
1948 Dorothy Jeakins Taylor JJ
1948

Dorothy JeakinsCostume Designer

Elizebeth Taylor - Award
1950 Donfeld JJ
1950

DonfeldCostume Designer

Academy Award Show
1950 Helen Rose Arlene Dahl JJ
1950

Helen RoseCostume Designer

Arlene Dahl
1950 Irene Sharaff
1950

Irene SharaffCostume Designer

In Studio
1953 Gentlemen Prefer
1953

Travilla Costume Designer

Gentleman Prefer Blondes
there is no business-scroll
1953

Travilla Costume Designer

Gentleman Prefer Blondes
seven year itch scroll
1953

Travilla Costume Designer

Gentleman Prefer Blondes
Moss Mabry 1955
1955

Moss MabryCostume Designer

Rebel Without A Cause
mabry 1
1955

Moss MabryCostume Designer

Rebel Without A Cause
1959 Orry Kelly Some Like it Hot JJ
1959

Orry KellyCostume Designer

Some Like It Hot

1960s-1970s

The Space Race set an optimistic tone, as television gained influence. Seminal science-fiction franchises were established, from Star Trek on NBC, designed by Robert Fletcher, to Star Wars, by John Mollo. Film glamour, eclipsed by realism in theatres, was revived in TV variety acts like the Cher and Carol Burnett Shows, both by Bob Mackie and Ret Turner. In contrast, sitcoms like The Jeffersons and All in the Family designed by Rita Riggs told stories about relatable characters. The Seventies saw scripts with darker themes. Movies like Annie Hall by Ruth Morley, Shaft by Joe Aulisi, and Bonnie and Clyde by Theadora Van Runkle revolutionized fashion. Milena Canonero’s costume design for Barry Lyndon and Piero Tosi’s for The Leopard became benchmarks of historical accuracy.

“That was the thing I pulled out that day and put on him that sold him as an old man”
–Rita Riggs

Play
Bold
Theadora Van Runkle
1967

Theadora Van Runkle  Costume Designer

Bonnie and Clyde
Theadora
1967

Theadora Van Runkle  Costume Designer

Bonnie and Clyde
Sanfordandson
1971-1975

Rita RiggsCostume Designer

TV Shows
the jeffersons
1971-1975

Rita RiggsCostume Designer

TV Shows
all in the family
1971-1975

Rita RiggsCostume Designer

TV Shows
1974

Anthea Sylbert  Costume Designer

China Town
china town
1974

Anthea Sylbert  Costume Designer

China Town

“That’s how it started quite by accident”
– Anthea Sylbert

1963

Piero TosiCostume Designer

The Leopard
Piero Tosi
1963

Piero TosiCostume Designer

The Leopard
Piero Tosi The Leopard
1963

Piero TosiCostume Designer

The Leopard
Piero Tosi
1963

Piero TosiCostume Designer

The Leopard
shaft 2
1971

Joe AulisiCostume Designer

Shaft
shaft
1971

Joe AulisiCostume Designer

Shaft
Cher
1973

Bob MackieCostume Designer

Cher
cher scroll
1973

Bob MackieCostume Designer

Cher
1975

May RouthCostume Designer

David Bowie: The Man that Fell to Earth
bowie scroll
1975

May RouthCostume Designer

David Bowie: The Man that Fell to Earth
Barry Lyndon 2
1975

Milena CanoneroCostume Designer

Barry Lyndon
Barry Lyndon 3
1975

Milena CanoneroCostume Designer

Barry Lyndon
Barry Lyndon 4
1975

Milena CanoneroCostume Designer

Barry Lyndon
Barry Lyndon Poser
1975

Milena CanoneroCostume Designer

Barry Lyndon
Barry Lyndon
1975

Milena CanoneroCostume Designer

Barry Lyndon
1975

Robert FletcherCostume Designer

Star Trek
star trek scroll
1975

Robert FletcherCostume Designer

Star Trek
Anne Hall 1
1977,1979

Ruth MorleyCostume Designer

Annie Hall, Kramer Vs. Kramer
Kramer Vs. Kramer
1977,1979

Ruth MorleyCostume Designer

Annie Hall, Kramer Vs. Kramer
1959 Orry Kelly Some Like it Hot JJ
1980

Robert TurturiceCostume Designer

In Studio
1959 Orry Kelly Some Like it Hot JJ
1980

Robert TurturiceCostume Designer

In Studio

1980s-1990s

1980s, Blockbuster films married star power to special effects and ushered in a Hollywood Renaissance, while VHS created a new revenue stream for studios. Teenagers flocked to theatres for E.T. by costume designer Deborah Lyn Scott, Raiders of the Lost Arc by Deborah Nadoolman, and the flurry of John Hughes coming-of-age stories irresistibly rendered by Marilyn Vance. Movies like Wall Street by Ellen Mirojnick and Flashdance by Michael Kaplan joined a myriad of sitcoms, and dramas like Dynasty by Nolan Miller, to become synonymous with the decade. Kaplan also teamed up with Charles Knode to create the groundbreaking looks in Bladerunner. Music Videos became a powerful medium. Among them were Marlene Stewart’s designs for Madonna, which dominated popular culture.

1990s, reaction to big-budget studio offerings, Nineties indie directors brought back the auteur’s singular vision. Quentin Tarantino collaborated with Betsy Heiman on Pulp Fiction; David Lynch worked with Patricia Norris on Twin Peaks, and Tim Burton teamed up with Colleen Atwood to create unforgettable characters like Edward Scissorhands. However, no film was more significant than Titanic, the period love story designed by Deborah Lyn Scott, beloved by all audiences. Also vital was the rise of Black Cinema trailblazed by John Singleton and Spike Lee in concert with Ruth E. Carter and others. Kym Barret transformed the superhero into the antihero in the Matrix. TV comedy was invigorated by Debra McGuire in Friends and Michelle Cole In Living Color, and the DVD and Netflix paved the road for the future.

“I always try to empower women with my work I want to also communicate the fun of life and the fun of creation”

–Mona May

Iconic
1995

Mona MayCostume Designer

Clueless
clueless
1995

Mona MayCostume Designer

Clueless
Almost Famous 1981-2000 Poster
1994,2000

Betsy HeimannCostume Designer

Almost Famous-Pulp Fiction
Betsy Heimann Pulp Fiction
1994,2000

Betsy HeimannCostume Designer

Almost Famous-Pulp Fiction

“As a costume designer, you’re working to put the director’s vision together for people to see through clothes It was a1970‘s autobiographical film”
–Betsy Heimann

1981

Deborah NadoolmanCostume Designer

Raiders of the Lost Ark
indiana jones
1981

Deborah NadoolmanCostume Designer

Raiders of the Lost Ark
Play

“That was Harrison’s no1hat that was the holy grail It was a tingling hair-on-the-back-of-the-head moment
–Deborah Nadoolman

1981

Nolan MillerCostume Designer

Dynasty
blade runner scroll
1982

Michael Kaplan & Charles KnodeCostume Designer

Blade Runner
blade runner
1982

Michael Kaplan & Charles KnodeCostume Designer

Blade Runner
blade runner Image
1982

Michael Kaplan & Charles KnodeCostume Designer

Blade Runner
blade runner Poster
1982

Michael Kaplan & Charles KnodeCostume Designer

Blade Runner
1982

Deborah Lynn ScottCostume Designer

E.T
E.T. 1
1982

Deborah Lynn ScottCostume Designer

E.T
E.T. 2
1982

Deborah Lynn ScottCostume Designer

E.T
E.T. 3
1982

Deborah Lynn ScottCostume Designer

E.T
Pretty in pink 4
1986

Marilyn VanceCostume Designer

Pretty in Pink
Pretty in pink 5
1986

Marilyn VanceCostume Designer

Pretty in Pink
pretty in pink scroll
1986

Marilyn VanceCostume Designer

Pretty in Pink
Pretty in pink 6
1986

Marilyn VanceCostume Designer

Pretty in Pink
Pretty in pink 3
1986

Marilyn VanceCostume Designer

Pretty in Pink
Pretty in pink
1986

Marilyn VanceCostume Designer

Pretty in Pink
Wallstreet Poster
1987

Ellen MirojnickCostume Designer

Wall Street
Wallstreet Poser
1987

Ellen MirojnickCostume Designer

Wall Street
Edward Scissorhands Colleen Atwood
1990

Colleen AtwoodCostume Designer

Edward Scissorhands
Colleen Atwood CD
1990

Colleen AtwoodCostume Designer

Edward Scissorhands
Edward Scissorhands
1990

Colleen AtwoodCostume Designer

Edward Scissorhands
Colleen Atwood
1990

Colleen AtwoodCostume Designer

Edward Scissorhands
Costume Designer
1990

Colleen AtwoodCostume Designer

Edward Scissorhands
Twin Peaks Scene
1990

Patricia NorrisCostume Designer

Twin Peaks
Twin Peaks TV Series
1990

Patricia NorrisCostume Designer

Twin Peaks
Twin Peaks Poster
1990

Patricia NorrisCostume Designer

Twin Peaks
Twin Peaks
1990

Patricia NorrisCostume Designer

Twin Peaks
In living color
1990

Michelle ColeCostume Designer

In Living Color
Michelle Cole
1990

Michelle ColeCostume Designer

In Living Color
Jocker
1990

Michelle ColeCostume Designer

In Living Color
Side Bar Banner
1990

Michelle ColeCostume Designer

In Living Color
Malcom X 2
1992

Ruth E. CarterCostume Designer

Malcom X
malcom x scroll
1992

Ruth E. CarterCostume Designer

Malcom X
Malcom X
1992

Ruth E. CarterCostume Designer

Malcom X
basic instinct scroll
1992

Ellen MirojnickCostume Designer

Basic Instinct
basic instinct
1992

Ellen MirojnickCostume Designer

Basic Instinct
Friends Poster
1994

Debra McguireCostume Designer

Friends
friends 2
1994

Debra McguireCostume Designer

Friends
friends 3
1994

Debra McguireCostume Designer

Friends
1997

Deborah Lynn ScottCostume Designer

Titanic
Titanic Image
1997

Deborah Lynn ScottCostume Designer

Titanic
titanic Poster
1997

Deborah Lynn ScottCostume Designer

Titanic
Leonardo DiCaprio
1997

Deborah Lynn ScottCostume Designer

Titanic
Titanic Poster
1997

Deborah Lynn ScottCostume Designer

Titanic
Kate Winslet
1997

Deborah Lynn ScottCostume Designer

Titanic
right club scroll
1999

Michael KaplanCostume Illustration

Fight Club
right club scroll
1999

Michael KaplanCostume Illustration

Fight Club
Matrix
1999

Kym BarrettCostume Designer

The Matrix
Matrix Movie
1999

Kym BarrettCostume Designer

The Matrix

2000 - Present

The millennium brought perceived and real disasters, from Y2K to tsunamis, terrorism, and economic collapse. Globalization was transformative in all areas and social media shifted the conversation. The Cell brought Eiko Ishioka’s striking, visionary fantasy to broader audiences. Judianna Makovsky designed two icons, Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone in 2001, which made the young wizard’s look instantly recognizable, and the first Hunger Games, a decade later which married high fashion to science fiction. Janie Bryant almost singlehandedly brought back men’s slim-cut suits and made period clothing relevant on television in Mad Men. In Desperate Housewives by Catherine  Adair and Ugly Betty by Eduardo Castro, style captivated audiences. The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo was given an edgy authenticity by Trish Summerville. In 2009, Avatar‘s intricate tribal costumes designed by Deborah Lynn Scott and Mayes C. Rubeo were filmed in stereoscopic 3D, breaking box office records.

 

Video on Demand (VOD) and smartphones fueled television’s transition to digital, closing the gap between the large and small screens. Underscoring this seachange were television shows like Boardwalk Empire by John A. Dunn and Lisa Padovani, and Game of Thrones by Michelle Clapton which expanded the scope of episodic TV. Costumes by Ane Crabtree in The Handmaid’s Tale and Sharen Davis in Watchmen inspired wide-spread social activism. Meanwhile, Allyson Fanger gave an older generation the license to embrace fashion in Grace and Frankie. 2018 saw Ruth E. Carter honored with the first costume Oscar for a black woman, with Black Panther. The Star Wars and Star Trek franchises were revitalized on television in The Mandalorian by Shawna Trpcic and Star Trek: Discovery by Gersha Phillips, and in theatres, the trilogy from The Force Awakens, the Last Jedi, and The Rise of Skywalker by Michael Kaplan elaborated on the series with characteristic bravura.

Queens should always have armor
–Ruth E Carter

Play
present black panther
2018

Ruth E. CarterCostume Designer

Black Panther
Black Panther 5
2018

Ruth E. CarterCostume Designer

Black Panther
Black Panther 4
2018

Ruth E. CarterCostume Designer

Black Panther
Black Panther 3
2018

Ruth E. CarterCostume Designer

Black Panther
Black Panther CDG
2018

Ruth E. CarterCostume Designer

Black Panther
Black Panther Costume Design
2018

Ruth E. CarterCostume Designer

Black Panther

The three major races each had their own color palette for the costumes as well as the aesthetic of the set designs
–Daniel Orlandi

present elizabeth
2007

Alexandra Byrne  Costume Designer

Elizabeth: The Golden Age
Elizabeth 3
2007

Alexandra Byrne  Costume Designer

Elizabeth: The Golden Age
Elizabeth 2
2007

Alexandra Byrne  Costume Designer

Elizabeth: The Golden Age
2019

Daniel Orlandi Costume Designer

Ford V Ferrari
present fvf
2019

Daniel Orlandi Costume Designer

Ford V Ferrari
2020

Rita McGhee  Costume Designer

P-Valley
pose 02
2020

Rita McGhee  Costume Designer

P-Valley
pose 03
2020

Rita McGhee  Costume Designer

P-Valley
pose 01
2020

Rita McGhee  Costume Designer

P-Valley

A long time ago I  took a pole dancing class and I was dizzy just walking around the pole
–Rita McGhee

Fearless
Momento
2000

Cindy EvansCostume Designer

Momento
Momento 2
2000

Cindy EvansCostume Designer

Momento
Momento 3
2000

Cindy EvansCostume Designer

Momento
eternal sunshine of the spotless mind 4
2004

Melissa TothCostume Designer

Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind
eternal sunshine of the spotless mind
2004

Melissa TothCostume Designer

Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind
eternal sunshine of the spotless mind 2
2004

Melissa TothCostume Designer

Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind
eternal sunshine of the spotless mind 3
2004

Melissa TothCostume Designer

Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind
Brokeback Mountain 4
2005

Marit AllenCostume Designer

Brokeback Mountian
Brokeback Mountain 2
2005

Marit AllenCostume Designer

Brokeback Mountian
Brokeback Mountain 3
2005

Marit AllenCostume Designer

Brokeback Mountian
Brokeback Mountain 5
2005

Marit AllenCostume Designer

Brokeback Mountian
Into the woods 3
2007

Mary Claire HannanCostume Designer

Into The Wild
Into the woods 1
2007

Mary Claire HannanCostume Designer

Into The Wild
Into the woods 2
2007

Mary Claire HannanCostume Designer

Into The Wild
present madmen scroll
2007

Janie BryantCostume Designer

Mad Men
Mad Men Scene
2007

Janie BryantCostume Designer

Mad Men
Mad Men 2
2007

Janie BryantCostume Designer

Mad Men
Mad Men 3
2007

Janie BryantCostume Designer

Mad Men
Mad Men Poster
2007

Janie BryantCostume Designer

Mad Men
Mad Men Tv Series
2007

Janie BryantCostume Designer

Mad Men
Movie Scene
2007

Mark BridgesCostume Designer

There Will Be Blood
Banner
2007

Mark BridgesCostume Designer

There Will Be Blood
Poster
2007

Mark BridgesCostume Designer

There Will Be Blood
There Will Be Blood
2007

Mark BridgesCostume Designer

There Will Be Blood
2008

Suttirat Anne LarlarbCostume Designer

Slumdog Millionaire
present candelabra scroll
2013

Ellen MirojnickCostume Designer

Behind The Candelabra
Behind The Candelabra
2013

Ellen MirojnickCostume Designer

Behind The Candelabra
Behind The Candelabra 2
2013

Ellen MirojnickCostume Designer

Behind The Candelabra
Behind The Candelabra 3
2013

Ellen MirojnickCostume Designer

Behind The Candelabra
12 years a slave
2013

Patricia NorrisCostume Designer

12 Years A Slave
12 years a slave 2
2013

Patricia NorrisCostume Designer

12 Years A Slave
12 years a slave 3
2013

Patricia NorrisCostume Designer

12 Years A Slave
12 years a slave 4
2013

Patricia NorrisCostume Designer

12 Years A Slave
12 years a slave 5
2013

Patricia NorrisCostume Designer

12 Years A Slave
present the son scroll
2017

Catherine AdairCostume Designer

The Son
The Son 4
2017

Catherine AdairCostume Designer

The Son
The Son 5
2017

Catherine AdairCostume Designer

The Son
The Son 3
2017

Catherine AdairCostume Designer

The Son
Catherine Adair
2017

Catherine AdairCostume Designer

The Son
The Son
2017

Catherine AdairCostume Designer

The Son
2018

Analucia McGortyCostume Designer

Pose
present pose
2018

Analucia McGortyCostume Designer

Pose
Promising Young Woman 1
2020

Nancy SteinerCostume Designer

Promising Young Woman
Promising Young Woman 4
2020

Nancy SteinerCostume Designer

Promising Young Woman
Promising Young Woman 2
2020

Nancy SteinerCostume Designer

Promising Young Woman
united states vs billie holiday
2020

Paulo NiedduCostume Designer

United States Vs. Billie Holiday
Minari 1
2020

Susanna SongCostume Designer

Minari
Minari 2
2020

Susanna SongCostume Designer

Minari
Minari 3
2020

Susanna SongCostume Designer

Minari
Judas And The Black Messiah 1
2021

Charlese Antoinette JonesCostume Designer

Judas And The Black Messiah
Judas And The Black Messiah 2
2021

Charlese Antoinette JonesCostume Designer

Judas And The Black Messiah
Judas And The Black Messiah 3
2021

Charlese Antoinette JonesCostume Designer

Judas And The Black Messiah